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Out of the Ordinary [Review of Burnt Butter Italian Kitchen]



We’re doing something a little different here today.

I typically only write about my own cooking experiences and save the reviews and event pieces to the better qualified writers, but I’ve got a few things to say today and you know what? I’m going to say them despite the anxiousness I have surrounding this sort of writing.



*Disclaimer: I am not a restaurant or food critic.  I am writing this because I had such a wonderful experience that I feel it’s my duty to spread the love. 



This past Sunday evening we were guests at the first Chef-Paired Wine & Food Dinner at the newly opened Burnt Butter Italian Kitchen, located in the trendy Hintonburg neighbourhood of Ottawa. Burnt Butter, owned by husband and wife team Steve Wallace and Gen Lamorie has been opened just a touch over a month. They serve wonderfully vibrant dishes inspired by Italian flavours and traditions yet infused with local ingredients and seasonal fares. 



As we walked up the sidewalks leading to the restaurant, we weren’t sure what to expect. But as soon as we sauntered past the windows that cover the full length of the restaurant, and saw the warm lighting and smiling faces, we knew we were right at home. Burnt Butter has hit the nail on the head as far as decor goes. It’s modern without being cold, cozy without being stuffy, and certainly one of the most welcoming restaurants I’ve been to in a while. To call it ‘homey’ doesn’t have the proper connotation that I’m pushing for but I lack a better word that seems appropriate. Tables were set up to run the length of the restaurant, giving it a Sunday Dinner with family ambiance. Everyone chatted among themselves marrying in a warm buzz that floated above our heads. At one point, a dish was dropped, and without even a second thought, the whole restaurant, staff and patrons alike, erupted in an ‘OPA!’, making the best of what might have been an uncomfortable situation.



Gen, one of the owners, kindly came and introduced herself to me, bridging the sometimes intimidating gap between diners and restaurant owners. Throughout the evening, I often spoke with her about the wines we were enjoying or the food they had prepared and she came and talked without hesitation, even though I’m sure she was quite busy managing the first of these wonderful events. This no doubt speaks to the type of people Gen and Steve are and the type of people they hope to fill their restaurant with. Kind, generous, and welcoming.



Onto the most important aspect of our experience, the food.
We had mulled over a few reviews from previous diners and while they ranged from great to lukewarm, we disregarded keeping in mind that Burnt Butter had only been open a month and there are no doubt some kinks to work out as they embark on this exciting new journey. We went in with open minds and hungry bellies and we came out amazed and thoroughly satisfied. 



The event offered 5-courses with paired wines at a very reasonable $75. 

We started off with a Roasted Acorn Squash Soup with a Spaghetti Squash Nest to garnish. The soup was rich and smooth, spicy and sweet. The little nests of fried squash were a perfect textural contrast to the soup. 

 

Next up, a Seared Duck and Tomato Carpaccio with White Shallot and Asiago. This was probably my send favourite dish of the 5. The duck was beautifully cooked, blushing red in the center, and the white shallot and asiago mixture, spooned lovingly over the thinly sliced tomatoes and duck, provided the extra little bite of flavour that boosted the dish from good to great. 


 
Third course. My favourite dish offered that evening. A Zucchini Mascarpone Risotto Fritter with Yellow Pepper Puree. The fritter boasted a light-as-air batter and was fried to utter perfection. Not heavy, not greasy. The risotto was creamy and smooth inside and the yellow pepper puree gave it a bit of earthiness to bring down the richness of the dish. I haven’t spoken to any of the wines yet, because honestly, I have no idea what to say, but the Between The Lines Pinot Noir went so well with this dish that I had to say something. It was smooth and bold and really helped mellow the dish out. 

 



Patrons were given the option of chicken or fish for the fourth course. Two of us chose the chicken and the other two chose the fish. I had a chance to try both and I must say that I enjoyed the trout much more than the chicken. The grilled endive with caper vinaigrette was so beautiful and smokey and the fish was seared nicely on the outside and cooked to a perfect translucent on the inside. The chicken was a touch on the dry side and there could have been a smidge more stuffing to it to help moisten it. What I did try of the stuffing was excellent. The St Alberts goat cheese and caramelized onions made a delicious duo. The Swiss chard with white balsamic was also really lovely. Sweet and tart at the same time with a wonderfully crunchy, creamy mouthfeel. 



Fifth and final course. I’m not typically a huge crème brulee fan, but I enjoyed this nonetheless. The gentleman sitting beside us explained that because the custard was infused with alcohol (Calvados), it doesn’t set the same way most crème brulee does. The top was crunchy and caramelized and oh-so-delicious. The center was sweet and creamy with crunchy cubes of MacIntosh apples strewn about creating a nice contrast of sweet and tart. It was also my first experience with Ice Cider and I can’t wait to try it again. 


 
To say we enjoyed our evening at Burnt Butter is an immense understatement. We were all taken aback by the quality of food, the knowledge of the sommelier that enthusiastically explained each wine and it’s purpose with the food, the friendly and attentive staff, and the kindness of the hosts and owners, Gen and Steve. They warmly welcomed us into their home and I’m so grateful we can say we attended the first Wine & Food event. 

From what I gather, the October event is already sold out (how exciting!), but keep your eyes peeled for the November event. If you’re lucky enough to snatch a seat, you’re in for a wonderful evening.



Burnt Butter
1100 Wellington Street West
Ottawa, ON  K1Y 2Y7 
info@burntbutter.ca
613.792.4000