The Gouda Life

It’s been a little longer than usual since I’ve talked about the Farmers Feast, but I hope you’ll forgive me knowing it was for a most excellent reason.  

Tara and I decided this time around that it might be fun to switch things up a little and have two local chefs take on baskets of local produce, meat and other products from the Ottawa Farmers Market to see what their take on the items would be. Suffice to say, they both created some dishes that had me literally salivating over my keyboard as I looked through their photos and descriptions. This was such a fun way to see how the basket process and outcome differs from that of a homecook (aka me). These two gents turned the fruit and meat of our land into such beautiful dishes. Before we get too deep into the food, I’d like to introduce you to the two chefs that were awesome enough to take on this task despite their obviously hectic schedules. 

Earlier in the summer, I told you a little about Brothers Beer Bistro, a wonderful beer-focused, upscale-casual addition to the suddenly booming dining scene in Ottawa. Chef Darren Flowers is part owner, and all chef. He came to Brothers Beer by way of Play Food & Wine, Luxe Bistro and Beckta but eventually found home in this new venture he’s take on with friends (and “brothers”, though not by blood) Patrick Asselin and Nick Ringuette.  Since the doors of Brother Beer Bistro opened, traffic has been heavy and steady, filled with everyone from tourists passing through, to regulars who frequent the restaurant for their many cask-beer nights, and their impressive choice of 16 beers on tap and 60 available by the bottle. For more on food, see the link above or check out Chef Flowers’ menu on the website!

Darren’s approach to the basket from the Ottawa Farmers Market had my stomach groaning in jealousy. I only wish I was the happy recipient of these incredible dishes. Below is a list of what Chef Flowers did with his Farmers Feast products, and he even gave us a recipe for the Roasted Pear Pie, Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramel, and Cranberry Compote - what a good guy! (You can find the recipe at the bottom of this post). 



As well as Darren, we brought on Chef Paul Dubeau. Though I hardly think he needs an introduction as he’s one of Ottawa’s finest, let me tell you a little about this cured meat-loving, butchery-obsessed man who always has a welcoming smile painted across his face. Chef Dubeau started honing his skills at La Piazza, Trattoria Vittoria and the Black Thorn Cafe in Ottawa, and eventually found himself in the position of head butcher at pop-up deli Murray’s Market. From head butcher at Murray’s Market to sous chef of Murray Street Kitchen|Wine|Charcuterie, working alongside much celebrated Chef Steve Mitton, it seems Paul has found his place in Ottawa’s fast-growing dining scene. And holy cow (pig?), we’re glad for it.  Paul makes a killer house-made bologna (which can often be found in Murray Streets epic “Meat Cone”) among so many other meaty goodies. For a full breakdown of Murray Street’s menu and a little more on the boys behind the pork, see the website. 

Chef Dubeau has a decidedly comforting approach to food and it really comes through in the dishes he created with his basket. Bold flavours and stick-to-your-ribs satisfaction. This is the food we’ve come to love from this talented gent! 

Many, many thanks to the Farmers and producers who provided the ingredients in this edition of the Farmers Feast! 

Each basket given to the chefs included:
Upper Canada Cranberries
Castor River Farm – Oat Groats
Bryson Farms – Bok choy
O’Brien Farms – Beef Shoulder - petite tender
Warratah Downs – Leeks 
Bergeron Gardens – Brussel sprouts
Warner’s Farm – Bosc Pears
Linda’s Garden - Black Tomatoes

Chef Paul Dubeau’s dishes:

Appetizer: Roasted Brussels sprouts and braised pork belly salad with smoked black tomato dressing.


Main Course: Groat “fried rice”, fried in beef marrow, topped with creamed leeks and bok choy, with sweet & sour crispy beef.

Chef Darren Flowers dishes:


Appetizer: Beef Carpaccio - Pickled bok choy, roasted garlic aioli, Dijon, blackened black tomato, smoked paprika oil, crispy leeks.

Main Course: Pan Roasted Shoulder Tender - roasted Brussels sprouts,  blackened black tomatoes, pickled garlic, and groat risotto

Dessert: Roasted Pear Pie - vanilla ice cream, caramel, cranberry compote  

RECIPE: 
Pear and Cranberry Tart
Recipe courtesy of Chef Darren Flowers and Pastry Chef Adrienne Courey

Crust:
2 ½ cups flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 cup butter, cut into cubes and cold
¼ to ½ cup ice water
cream or milk, for brushing top of tart

Caramel Pear Filling
½ cup sugar
3 tbsp water
¼ cup whipping cream
1 tbsp butter
1/8 tsp salt
2-3 ripe pears, quartered

Cranberry Compote
½ cup fresh or frozen cranberries
1 tsp orange zest
2 tbsp orange juice
6 tbsp sugar (or more, to taste)

Vanilla Ice Cream:
3 cups 10% (half and half) cream
1 cup whipping cream
8 egg yolks
1 ¼ cups sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds removed, OR 1 tbsp vanilla extract

For Caramel Pear Filling:

1. In a heavy saucepan (at least 5 cup capacity), stir together the sugar, syrup, and water until the sugar is completely moistened.
2. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber
3. Immediately remove it from the heat and slowly and carefully pour the hot cream into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously.
4. Using a wooden spoon, or heat resistant spatula, stir the mixture until smooth. If any lumps develop, return to low heat and stir until smooth. Stir in butter and salt.
5. Pour caramel sauce into the bottom of each baking dish and let cool slightly. Arrange pear quarters over caramel sauce.

For the Crust:
1. In a food processor, or by hand, combine the flour, salt and sugar. If using a food processor, add butter and pulse until the butter is the size of small peas. By hand, cut the butter into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or two knives.
2. Add enough ice water to bring the dough together. The mixture may look dry, but will hold together when squeezed.
3. Pour the mixture onto plastic wrap and use the plastic to help shape the dough into a disc. Chill at least 30 minutes.
4. Roll the chilled crust to 1/8 inch thickness. Cut crust slightly larger than the baking pan. Drape crust over filling in baking dish and pinch edges along pan to seal.
5. Cut slits in the top of the crust to allow any steam to escape during the baking process.
6. Brush top of crust with cream or milk and sprinkle with sugar, if desired.
7. Bake tart at 350 degrees, until top is golden and juices are bubbling through steam vents. About 25-30 minutes.

Cranberry Compote:
1. Cook all ingredients together until thickened. Adjust sugar as desired.

For the Vanilla Ice Cream:
1. Heat both creams with vanilla over medium heat until just barely simmering.
2. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks and sugar vigorously until thickened and light in colour.
3. Slowly, while whisking, add half the hot cream to the egg yolk mixture. Return remaining cream to the heat.
4. While stirring remaining cream with a rubber spatula, add the egg yolk mixture to the pot. Cook until slightly thickened, stirring constantly. The mixture will hold a line when a finger is dragged across the spatula.
5. Cool mixture completely in the refrigerator, and then freeze in an ice cream machine, according to the manufacturers instructions. 

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Disclaimer: Farmers Feast is a partnership with the Ottawa Farmers Market. I am not compensated beyond the ingredients given from the market. Opinions expressed are mine and mine alone.

I’m a season pusher. The crazy person wearing a wool sweater and heavy boots the second the mercury drops below 20 degrees. If it could be between +5 and +15 all year round, I’d be pleased as flaky apple pie (you know, because it would be apple season year round!) 

I’m ready for fall and tired of summer. Tired of being a sweaty mess wherever I show up. Totally over wearing shorts and tank tops. Exhausted from one too many nights spent awake misting ourselves to cool down. Ready for a change - boots, sweaters, mittens and cold noses. Wrapping fingers around hot mugs of tea, pulling out the quilt we regretfully tuck into the wooden trunk each spring, longer, tighter hugs and the unmistakable sound of leaves crunching beneath feet. 



It’s not all bad, though. I swear I’m not a total curmudgeon and I definitely will miss certain aspects of summer. Sitting on the balcony late into the night under the cover of winding bean vines, spending my lunch hour reading on the patio at work, dangling my toes in the water while I sip sangria at Mr. GL’s parents, sheets drying in the sun, but mostly I’ll miss the food. Terribly so. Fresh produce from the market, eating salsa that’s still warm from the just-picked tomatoes, the way a cucumber tastes when it’s plucked right from the plant, bright flavours and citrus-heavy crudo. Those are the things I find myself nostalgic for during the dark winter months. 

As I perused the Farmers Feast basket this month, packed with vibrant yellow beans, lamb shanks and a metric tonne of fragrant shisito peppers (among other things), my mind started moving in the direction of a curry. Something comforting and heavy. But the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to stretch the days of summer and cook the way I have been the last three months. So I made myself a compromise. I could do a heavy braise so long as the flavours were balanced out with something light and citrusy. And you know my penchance for anything taco/burrito/tostada related, right? I’d pretty much trample my own mother for a bite of a taco. Don’t tell her! (Sorry Deb!). It wasn’t long before I was braising the lamb in a savoury mix of extra special bitter beer and Chipotle while zipping up a sweet and spicy salsa. 

As usual, I was blown away by the incredible ingredients that came in the basket. Many, many thanks to the Farmers who provided this month’s feast & the Ottawa Farmers Market;

Yellow beans – Just Farms
Ground Cherries – Needhams
Lamb – Stevenson Farm
Amber Mustard – Somerford & Hall
Peppers & Eggplants – Roots Down Organic Farm 

Propeller ESB & Chipotle Braised Lamb Shank Tostadas with Roasted Shisito, Tomatillo & Ground Cherry Salsa
makes 4 tostadas

I used Propeller ESB because it’s Canadian and because I love it. You can use whatever ESB is available to you, but if you can find Propeller in your city, I highly recommend it! 

Chipotle in Adobo can be found in the Mexican section of most grocery stores. They’re usually tucked in with the pickled jalapenos/refried beans. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also make your own at home.  

Braised Lamb Shanks
2 lamb shanks (about 2-3lbs together)
1/2 bottle Extra Special Bitter beer
1/2 cup orange juice
2 tbsp amber-ale mustard (something on the milder side)
1 canned Chipotle (in adobo) + 2 tbsp adobo sauce
salt and pepper
vegetable oil

Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat and drizzle in a tsp or two of oil oil (enough to coat the pan). Pat the shanks dry and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Once the oil is hot and shimmering, place the shanks in the pan and brown on all sides (2 minutes per side). Take your time here, getting good colour on the shanks ensures the best flavour. 

Preheat oven to 325.
In small bowl, mix the beer, adobo, orange juice and a pinch or two of salt. Place the browned shanks in a roasting pan and cover with the braising liquid. Cover in foil and secure it tightly around the edges so no steam escapes. 

Place in the oven and braise for 2 hours or until meat pulls away from the bone really easily. 

Remove shanks and meat and set aside. Skin fat from the braising liquid and poor into a sauce pot. Bring to a boil and let reduce, stirring frequently, until sauce coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. 

Use aa fork to shred the meat from the shank and place in a big bowl. Poor the reduced sauce, a little at a time, over the shredded meat and toss to coat. You might have left over sauce - feel free to serve that on the side. 

Roasted Shisito, Tomatillo & Ground Cherry Salsa
Makes 1 1/2 cups

If you’re unable to find shisitos, a sweet Japanese pepper, feel free to simply add another jalapeno or milder pepper of your choice. Perhaps a cubanelle. 

3 shisito peppers, cut in half, seeded/deveined
1 jalapeno pepper, cut in half, seeded/deveined 
1 1/2 cups tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed well
3/4 cup ground cherries, husks removed and rinse well
1/2 small red onion, rough chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
juice from 1/2 lime
1/2 tsp sugar
salt

Turn oven on to broil. 

Cut tomatillos in half . Place Shisito, Jalapeno and Tomatillos on a baking sheet (skin side up) and place under broiler for 1-2 minutes until skins blister and start to get charred. Remove from the oven and dump into the food processor along with the cherries, onion, garlic, cilantro, lime, sugar and a pinch or two of salt. Process in quick pulses so it still has some texture to it. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if needed. 

Refrigerate until ready to serve. 

 
To Finish: 
4 corn tortillas

Garnish (optional):
sliced limes
fresh cilantro
Sour cream/Mexican Crema
Manchego or Feta
pickled pepper rounds 

In a dry pan over high heat, place one tortilla at a time and let it bubble and brown on each side (about 30 seconds per side). 

Place a crispy tortilla on each plate and top with lamb, salsa, sour cream, cilantro, cheese and a squeeze of lime. Take a quick second to say a thanks to the hard working farmers who made this food possible, and then dive in!



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Disclaimer: Farmers Feast is a partnership with the Ottawa Farmers Market. I am not compensated beyond the ingredients given from the market. Opinions expressed are mine and mine alone.  
 

Another month, another Farmers Feast. 

This time, it was all about the corn. The beautiful, golden yellow and satisfyingly sweet corn. With the recent drought still causing uncertainty and stress for our farmers, I worried that I might not get the opportunity to go about my usual late-summer addiction to the succulent golden beauties. 

Imagine my sheer elation when I spied 4 perfect cobs of corn tucked away inside my surprise basket from the Ottawa Farmers Market. I showed up earlier than usual this time, and found Tara zipping around thoughtfully filling my take-away basket full of shiro plums, peppy yellow patty pan squashes, cobs of corn, fragrant tomatoes, pungent purslane & red Russian garlic, Red Deer pepperettes and spiky artichokes. This was going to be a fun one. 

I ultimately decided on a warm, caramelized corn salad packed with all things sweet, savoury, creamy and crunchy. I wanted to do something that was simple and speedy to make in the extreme heat we’ve been having lately. It was nearly impossible to add everything from the basket into the salad, but I tried to use as much as was possible without overdoing it. Rest assured, everything else found a happy home in my tummy. 

The vendors who graciously provided this month’s Farmers Feast:
Warner Farms – plums
Kiwan Farms - purslane
Acorn Creek Garden Farm – artichoke
Needham’s Garden Market– sweet corn
Trillium Meadows Red Deer & Wild Boar Farm – pepperettes
Hoople Creek Farm– red Russian garlic
Jaquemet Garden – tomatoes
Bergeron Gardens - Paddy pans

Oh, and while we’re yakking about the market, I want to make sure you all know about Savour Ottawa’s Harvest Table event. This year it’s being held on August 19th at the Ottawa Farmers Market (Brewer Park) and it’s going to be a delicious day. Tickets are $60 ($75 for cream of the crop tickets, which include a tour of the market and some tasty sampling) and include a 5 course menu prepared by some of Ottawa’s most celebrated chefs and local beer and wine. The market will be in full swing as usual, bringing diners and shoppers together for one giant celebration of local food and drink. For more details on restaurants and beer/wine companies involved, have a look at the link above. I really hope I’ll see you there, it’s going to be a fantastic day! 

 Warm Caramelized Corn, Shiro Plum & Patty Pan Salad
serves 4 as a side, 2 as a main course

If you’re unable to find patty pan squashes, zucchini will do in a pinch. The same goes for plums - use red plums or even peaches in place of shiro plums if you’re unable to find them. 

3-4 cobs of corn, kernels sliced off the cob (about 1 1/2-2 cups)
2 tbsp olive oil (or 1 tbsp oil + 1 tbsp butter for extra indulgence)
4-5 patty pan squashes, cut into bite-sized piece
4 shiro plums, pitted and sliced in quarters
3 large tomatoes, cut into 1/2” rounds
1/4 large red onion, minced
2 tbsp fresh cilantro, minced
1 tbsp fresh lime juice + slices for serving
1 tbsp good quality olive oil
Good, aged Lankaaster or Parmesan cheese, crumbled
sea salt and pepper

Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add olive oil (and butter, if using) into the pan until melted. Add the corn to the pan and spread evenly. Let it sit to brown for 2 minutes. Stir, spread evenly and repeat for another 2 minutes. Add the squash and cook with the corn, stirring occasionally until it’s tender but still has a nice bite to it, about 6-7 minutes. Stir in the red onion, cilantro, lime juice and olive oil. Toss to coat. Taste for seasoning, add salt if needed. 

Place 2-3 tomatoes slices on your plate (or in a serving dish). Spoon corn salad over the tomatoes and top with crumbled cheese, a few grinds of pepper and another squeeze of lime. 



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Disclaimer: Farmers Feast is a partnership with the Ottawa Farmers Market. I am not compensated beyond the ingredients given from the market. Opinions expressed are mine and mine alone. 

 
It’s that time again….  Farmers Feast #2 is here! And it comes bearing brilliant red berries and crispy smoked bacon. That sounds good, right? I thought so, too.

When Tara dropped off the basket this week (I wasn’t able to make it to the market last Sunday because I was shoving my face full of oysters, fish burgers and Kichesippi beer at The Whalesbone 5^th Annual Oysterfest – I know, it’s a rough life. I’m super hard done by.) I first laid eyes on the pint of impossibly plump, unblemished and heart-achingly deep plummy red cherries. I don’t know if I heard anything Tara said for the first 10 seconds as my brain slowed to a hazy berry-induced coma while I fully absorbed the excitement of it all. To their right, a pint of equally stunning Red Currants, as delicate and glossy as glass beads. I knew that despite my urge to start popping them in my mouth like M&Ms, I wanted to hold out and do something extra special.

Along with the berries came some bacon, naked oats and a red wheat flour blend, humongous fava beans pods (which, to be honest, I was a little terrified of at first), some rainbow Swiss chard, delicate sugared flower petals (that are so beautiful I’m almost scared to use them!), some incredibly pungent Belarus garlic, spotty, organic brown eggs and some life-changing amber maple syrup (that I’ve been sneaking regular swigs from). 

 Since we’re mere days away from celebrating Canada’s 145 birthday (she’s a lovely old broad, ain’t she?), I thought something Red and White might be suiting for the occasion. Fluffy white clouds of billowy whipped cream layered between tangy, succulent cherries, lusciously tart red currant curd, and a crisp, salty-sweet maple bacon granola. Are you still with me? Should I send help? Quick, get the nearest person to hurl a glass of ice water in your face! That’ll shake the bacon sweats right outta you!



Though I wasn’t able to use everything offered in the basket (I wasn’t sure if you’d welcome the idea of Fava beans in your parfaits), I came pretty darn close. The list of vendors who graciously provided the contents of the Farmers Feast this week are;

Roots & Shoots Farm – rainbow chard
Garland’s Sugar Shack – amber maple syrup
Castor River Farm – flour, quick oats and smoked bacon
Corinne Mooney’s Fleurs Combestiles – sugared flowers
Acorn Creek Garden Farm – Belarus Garlic
Warner’s Farm – currants and cherries
Waratah Downs Organic Farm – fava beans
Reinink Family Farms – Organic eggs

Cherry & Red Currant Curd Granola Parfaits 
serves 4

After making and tasting the final product, I’m not 100% sold on the addition of bacon. The bacon itself was un-frigging-believable in flavour, but it didn’t add much to the final product. Try as I may, sometimes things just seem better on paper. So I’ve made adjustments if you’d like to leave it out. 

That said, the Maple-Bacon Granola on it’s own is something you MUST try. I back it 100% and have been eating it with a spoon since yesterday morning. 

Red Currant Curd
adapted from La Twisted Chef 

2 cups fresh red currants (about 1 pint) rinsed (save a few for garnish!)
6 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into pieces
pinch of salt

In a saucepot, add the currants (stems and all) and a splash of water. Cook until the berries have burst and released all their juices. Use the back of a wooden spoon to gently help smoosh them. 

Strain the juice into a bowl pressing on the pulp to make sure you’ve gotten all the juice. 

Stir half the currant juice (for a more tart curd, add about 3/4 of it), yolks and sugar together in the rinsed sauce pot and place over medium heat. Stir constantly until the mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and add butter, 1 piece at a time, until incorporated. Scrap curd into a bowl and push a piece of plastic wrap right against the top of the curd (to prevent a skin forming). Refrigerate for at least an hour so it can set.

Maple-Bacon Granola
adapted from Married and Cooking

6 slices bacon (optional)
2 1/2 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup pecan pieces
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
pinch salt
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup bacon fat (or vegetable oil if you’re cutting out the bacon)

Preheat over to 350.

If using, place the bacon on a wire rack over a clean cookie sheet and place in the oven. Bake until crisp (about 10-15 minutes). Pour the bacon fat into a small bowl and reserve. Let bacon cool and then crumble into small pieces. Maintain the oven temperature.

Mix the oats, cinnamon and pecans and pour onto a cookie sheet. Place in the oven, stirring every so often, until oats and nuts are lightly toasted and golden brown, about 10-12 minutes. Remove from oven and pour into a large bowl. Add the maple syrup, bacon fat (or oil), crumbled bacon and salt. Mix well and pour back onto cookie sheet. Bake for another 10-12 minutes or until oats have absorbed the oil/syrup and feel dry and crunchy to the touch. Let cool and pour into a jar.

 For the Parfait:
1 ½ cups whipping cream
1 tbsp maple syrup
1 pint cherries, pitted and rough chopped

Pour whipping cream and maple syrup into a bowl and, using electric mixer or stand mixer, whip until stiff peaks form.

In 4 serving glasses (alternatively, 2 tall glasses), spoon a layer of whipped cream, then a layer of curd, a sprinkle of cherries, another layer of whipped cream and a thick layer of granola. Do another layer of whipped cream and curd, and then top with cherries and granola. If you’ve reserved any currants, garnish with them.

Place in the fridge for 30 minutes to set, and then dig right in there!