The Gouda Life

“Homemade salsa? Homemade cheese? Homemade spice blends? Homemade sauces? Who has the time?”

Or so I thought.

Until I really started cooking for myself, the idea of making my own items that I could otherwise buy in jars  or deli counters just didn’t make any sense to me. Why would I bother when someone else can do it for me? Of course, the reasons for making scratch-options as opposed to canned/jarred/pre-packed are vast, ranging from sodium control to food allergies to the simple fact that it just tastes better. Afterall, that is what it’s all about, right?

 

When I came across Nancy Silvertion’s recipe for an easy homemade Ricotta in this month’s Bon Appetit, I was hesitant at best.  Many ‘easy’ homemade recipes for ricotta that I’ve come across in the past were sometimes 2-day ordeals, which I, unfortunately, don’t always have the patients for. But unlike those, presumably delicious, other recipes, this one was true to it’s word. 30 minutes, 4 ingredients, and a little cheesecloth.  When I say it’s easier than a kick in the pants, I really do mean it. And failing that, it’s absolutely easier, as well as cheaper, than heading to the grocery store and buying a tub of the stuff. Just in case I haven’t sold you yet, it tastes unlike any ‘ricotta’ you might buy from your grocery store. I found it to be far creamier, fresher and lighter than I had expected.

Once I finished the totally uncomplicated process of making the cheese, I really wanted to showcase it in a manner that let it shine. Having never had Ricotta in a sweet dish, I thought I might give it a whirl and see where we went.  I had purchased hazelnuts and honey, assuming I could put those to good use, as well as some mint, plums and cinnamon that I found hanging around the house.  Before I knew it I was roasting, drizzling, and chopping things up for one of the lightest, most flavourful and texturally-pleasing dishes I’ve had in some time.  I’m well aware I’ve asked you time and time again to take my word, but for love of all things sweet and creamy, please take it again! I beg of you. I’m at your mercy! I AM!

Homemade Ricotta with Roasted Hazelnuts, Plum and Mint
Ricotta recipe adapted from Bon Appétit via Mozza chef Nancy Silvertion

As  Nancy points out, this isn’t an authentic Ricotta (which means, literally, “Recooked”) since we aren’t reheating the leftover whey from homemade Mozzarella, however, I have no doubt you will find it favourable to the supermarket variety.

Homemade Ricotta
makes 1-2 cups

4 cups whole milk
1 cup table cream
2 tbsp very fresh lemon juice
½ tsp salt
6 layers of cheesecloth

Before you begin, set up a mesh-sieve or colander set inside a large bowl. Add the layered cheese cloth inside.



In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring the lemon juice, cream and milk just to a boil. Do not stir during cooking. While it’s reaching a boil you will see curds start to appear. Try not to disturb them as you want to the curds to stay intact.



Once mixture has come to a boil, immediately remove from heat and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.




Carefully spoon, (using a measuring cup or ladle, not a slotted spoon), the liquid and curds into the cheesecloth.  Let cheese drain for at least 30 minutes. The longer it sits the more flavourful and creamy the ricotta will be.

 

Note: If curds do not start developing as your mixture comes to a boil, it means your lemon is not acidic enough. Add another tablespoon and stir being very careful not to disturb curds.

Note #2: When I was ready to eat the cheese, I gave the cloth a good squeeze to remove excess moisture. I’m not sure if this is appropriate practice, but it still tasted just wonderful to me.

 

Everything Else

If you don’t have hazelnuts or plums on hand, feel free to use a stone-fruit and nut of your choice. Peaches and pecans would be lovely together. Pistachios would be wonderful as well.

2 plums, pit removes and sliced
¼ cup skinned hazelnuts
¼ cup mint leaves
honey for drizzling
cinnamon, for garnish

Preheat oven to 325.

Place whole hazelnuts in a roasting pan and cook, shaking the pan every couple of minutes, until golden brown. About 7-8 minutes. Let nuts sit until cool to the touch.

Once hazelnuts have cooled, give them a quick run through with your knife so they are in large pieces.



Chop about half of the mint leaves, leaving the other half whole for presentation.

In 3-4 serving bowls, place a large spoonful of ricotta. Top each with 4 plum slices, a sprinkle of nuts, and some whole and chopped mint. Drizzle each bowl with honey and sprinkle with cinnamon to finish.



I asked Claire, who is the always-on-point wine blogger for local food blog FoodiePrints, what she would pair with this since I couldn’t resist giving a wine option to go along with such a pretty dish. She suggested a Sauternes would really rock with dessert. More specifically, a Chateau Guiraud. I had hoped to be able to try the pairing out before I shared but was unable to find for tonight. So hopefully you will do me the honor and report back on how wonderful I’m sure it is. 

Until we meet again. 

 

I’m holding my wrists out, palms facing up, for the slap on the wrists I deserve for having been absent from here for so long. 

There has been so much going on lately that upon arriving home from most days, I am magnetically drawn to the couch and the comforts of my living room.  I’ve felt the guilt burning into me for not getting busy telling you about all these wonderful things I’ve been making lately, but thankfully the burning feeling could often be tamed with a cold glass of wine. For that, I am apologetic.



While most people are dealing with the ever-present heat-wave with light meals and less frequent eating, I am stuffing my face with anything I can get my hands on. Light, heavy, sweet or savoury. I want it all. And often. Why I can’t be one of ‘those people’ who magically stay svelte by repeating ‘It’s just too hot to eat’ is beyond me. I’m just not that lucky. I could eat pasta and bread every day all summer long. Maybe even 4 times a day. Not that I do… but I could. Oh boy, I could.

Thankfully, my affinity for filling but fresh dishes has brought me here today to tell you about something magical. It’s a pasta dish that’s summery, fresh and leaves you feeling satiated without feeling sleepy. 

If you’ve ever come across the site Honest Fare while grazing the vast plains of the internet, you know it’s a hub for the sort of dishes that feel as good as they taste. And how could they not with a name like Honest Fare. If there has ever been a site you click through to from The Gouda Life, let this one be it. It’s beautiful. It’s eloquently written. The photos are breath taking. And the food is utterly perfect. Always something fresh and unique and exciting to try at home. 



When I first laid eyes on an entry about a Fresh Mint and Pea Pasta Alla Carbonara, I knew, without ever a second of hesitation, it would be coming to a plate near me in the very near future. I couldn’t resist the way the little raw egg yolks looked sitting atop a steaming pile of linguine, with blanched peas, fresh mint, crispy prosciutto and Parmesan cheese.  It was lovely to look at, the textures worked so brilliantly with each other and it smelled just the way you would imagine summer to smell. 



Fresh Mint and Pea Pasta Alla Carbonara
adapted from Honest Fare

 If you’re worried about raw egg yolks, they do cook when you toss them with the hot pasta. If you’re still not comfortable with it, toss it all in the pot with a little pasta water before adding the fresh ingredients. 

If your snap peas are not really big enough to provide a crunch, you can just add extra English peas. 

I didn’t use the shallots because I didn’t remember to pick them up (would you expect any different from me?) but I wanted to keep them with the written recipe since I think they would really take this dish up a notch. But if you are looking for another method, just blanch the peas quickly. And toss them with the pasta. 


1 1/2 cups English peas, fresh or frozen
1/2 - 3/4 cups sugar snap peas, shelled
5 slices crispy prosuitto, recipe follows
1/4 cup shallot, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
2 big handfuls of fresh mint, leaves whole
1/3 lbs linguine
2-3 egg yolks, depending on how many are eating
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter
Salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan

Have sugar snap peas shelled and in a bowl ready to go.



Place egg yolks in individual bowls and sprinkle with a little coarse salt, cracked black pepper and a little red pepper flake if you like heat. Set aside until ready to serve. Have cheese grated and crispy prosciutto in bowls ready to use. 

Add olive oil and butter to a frying pan over medium heat. Once melted and shiny, saute shallots and peas, partially covered, until shallots are soft. Salt and pepper the veg to taste but feel free to go a little heavy on the salt since it will need it once tossed with pasta.



While shallots are cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the linguine to al-dente according to package directions. Before straining, add 1/2-1 cup of starchy pasta water to the pan with the peas and shallots.  Transfer pasta to the pan with the peas and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper and a little red pepper flake for some heat. Add a small handful of the cheese and some olive oil if the pasta is sticking. 

Assembly needs to be rather quick to keep the pasta hot enough to cook the egg yolks. Fill each bowl or plate with a good helping of the pea pasta. Top each dish with a pre-seasoned egg yolk, raw snap peas, crispy prosciutto and some flakes of Parmesan. Mix everything together at the table while the pasta is still pipping hot.




Crispy Prosciutto
In a large skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tbsp of canola or other light oil . Rip prosciutto into bite sized shreds and add to pan. Stir every so often to get it crispy on all sides. Transfer to paper towels to drain excess oil. 






 

I’m turning into an old man. Have you noticed? 

All I can seem to talk about lately is the weather. I want to talk about it all day long. And if I’m not talking about the weather, I’m talking about how I talk about the weather. I’m sure you’re tired of hearing about it by now, aren’t you? 

But guess what? It’s still hot as hell in Ottawa. And I’m still trying to find dishes that help cool me down without eating a freezer full of Popsicles. And I’ve got a great one for you today.

As I was flipping through the newest edition of Food & Drink, I came across a recipe that sounded almost as delicious as it ended up tasting. It’s simple, straightforward, fresh and tastes oh-so-decadent. And, in case you hadn’t already assumed, it’s easy. Almost as easy as this post. Which I do apologize for, but believe it or not, some nights I’m not nearly as brilliant and witty as I typically appear …. haw haw haw! (Ok, tell me that wasn’t even a little funny? No? Shoot.)

Parfaits are one of Mr GL’s favourite treats. Which is great considering they take 5 minutes to put together. Layers of whipped cream and fresh berries are easy and delicious enough, but when you add cream cheese and a citrus curd to the mix, it becomes something entirely different. The layers of flavour in this parfait are so fresh and clean. You can almost taste every ingredient separately before they combine in your mouth. To say they very least, it’s lovely. And also, it’s beautiful.

 

Strawberry-Mint Parfaits with Cheesecake Cream and Lime Curd
serves 4
adapted from Food & Drink

Because there are only two of us, we went the gluttonous route and piled the ingredients high into two glasses. But it actually does serve 4. Mais, nous sommes des cochons! 

If you don’t like lime, then you’re no friend of mine. No wait, I’m sorry. You can use lemon or grapefruit instead! 

6 cups fresh strawberries
2 tbsp sugar
handful fresh mint, chopped fine
1 package (250g) light cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup icing sugar
1 cup cold whipping cream
1 tsp vanilla
1-1 1/2 cups lime curd, recipe to follow
Zest of 1 lime 

Set 4 of the best looking strawberries aside. Hull and slice the rest of them. Place in a large bowl with sugar and chopped mint. Cover and refrigerate until ready to put parfaits together. 



Using a standing or handheld electric mixer whip the cream cheese and icing sugar until smooth in a large bowl. In another bowl, add the vanilla and heavy cream and whip until stiff peaks form. Fold the two creams together until smooth. Cover and place in the fridge for 30 minutes. 





When ready to assemble parfaits - get 4 parfait or wine glasses capable of holding 1 cup and set on clean surface. Carefully add a spoonful or two of berries, followed by a large dollop of cream and a spoonful of curd. Finish with another layer of berries, cream and another spoonful of curd. Garnish with a whole berry and a sprinkle of lime zest. 






Lime Curd

4 large limes
3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter, softened

Finely zest one of the limes. Set aside. 



Juice the 4 limes into a small bowl. 

In a medium sauce pan, whisk eggs sugar and butter. Stir in juice and zest. Whisk constantly over low heat until mixture starts to thicken and turn lighter in colour. 15-18 minutes. Do not boil. 



Once thickened, pour through a mesh strainer into a glass bowl. Press plastic wrap right against the curd and let cool in fridge for 1 hour. 

Keep in fridge for one week or freeze and scoop as needed.
 
 

I have a hard time at restaurants. 

It’s not that I’m picky. In fact, quite the opposite. The whole other end of the spectrum, actually. I want it all. I’m greedy for everything that establishment has to offer. What might seem like indecisiveness due to specific taste, is really just me feeling exasperated knowing I’m only allowed (financially, anyways) to order one of many options. 

When I learned a few years back that my favourite (yes, favourite!) Ottawa restaurant, Allium, was starting to do a tapas and wine night on Mondays, I was convinced someone finally heard my indecisive sighs and saw my heavily furrowed menu-scanning brows. At long last! A chance to eat a few small plates from the menu I most pined after. 



A girlfriend of mine, also conveniently one of the chef’s wives, and I decided to head over there last night to close out a Monday with a cold glass of wine, some gossip, catching up, and a few plates of the most delicious dishes in Ottawa. As usual, the plates did not disappoint. We each chose two of our favourite dishes and finished the meal off with a cheese plate. My girlfriend first chose some creamy Mushroom Toasts, which reminded me a lot of a broken down cream of mushroom soup. Rich, buttery, and comforting. Second, a Tuna Tadaki, perfectly seared, pink in the middle, seasoned to perfection and served with pickled ramps (!), orange, almonds and sour cream. 



My first pick was Duck Chili Cheese Fries. Can you blame me? I’d love to see you pass that up on a menu. The chili was lovely. Rich and bursting with flavour. Made only better by melted cheese and hand cut fries. Secondly, and most importantly, I chose a Scallop Crudo. It was something I would have passed up any other day, but it being particularly hot yesterday, I didn’t think I could do anything heavy after the fries. They say everything happens for a reason and I am now a believer. The crudo was… unbelievable. If summer had a flavour, that would have been it. Giant thin sliced scallops, marinated for a short period in citrus, and served with edamame, cucumber, tomato and spiced honey. If I could find a way to express just how much I enjoyed this dish, I would. But words escape me (shockingly). It was perfect. 


Our Allium plates. Mind the photo quality. Because I am not a food critic, or anything close to the likes, I don’t like to be ‘that guy’ and whip out my camera to take shots. A quick cell phone photo was all I could muster without turning red. 

I couldn’t imagine not being able to have it again, this simple plate of ingredients so perfectly balanced and bright. And thus, came home in search of a way to recreate it. Immediately. Before I forgot the way it tasted. While some changes were made based on ingredient availability and how I was feeling today, I think I came pretty darn close. Though it will never taste as good as when someone else makes it for you, I’m glad I can get my fill of summer flavour whenever I want it. 



Scallop Crudo with Grapefruit, Edamame, Zucchini and Mint Oil 
Dish based on Allium Ottawa Scallop Crudo
serves 2 as a main, 4 as an appetizer. 

If you live in Ottawa, I highly suggest making a trip to The Whalesbone Sustainable Oyster and Fish Supply for your scallops. Not only are they the size of your head (a very slight exaggeration), but they sell all sustainable species and while you’re buying you can pick up their awesome brown bag lunch. If that’s not enough to send you in their direction, I don’t know what is.

Vegetarian Note: While the scallops were delicious, they are certainly not vital to this dish. The citrus marinated zucchini slices with the rest of the ingredients would have made a wonderfully acceptable dish as well. 

4 scallops (3 if very large), sliced into 1/4” rounds
half a large zucchini, sliced as thin as you can, preferably with a mandoline
1 tsp zest from lime
Juice from 1 lime
1 tsp zest from grapefruit
Juice from half a grapefruit
1/3 cup mint leaves, plus extra for garnish
2-4 tbsp canola oil
1 cup edamame (soy beans), shelled
Large flake salt, to finish
Best olive oil you can afford, to finish
1-2 red Thai hot peppers, sliced thing to garnish (optional)

Add the sliced scallops and zucchini to a shallow bowl.



Add the lime and grapefruit zest and juice. Cover and let rest in the fridge until you’re ready to plate. 

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the mint leaves, reserving extra leaves for garnish, and blanch for about 1 minute until bright green. Add to a bowl of ice water to stop the coking process. Reserve the ice bath. Add the leaves to the bowl of a food processor with 2 tbsp canola oil. Pulse until well blended. If the mixture is still a little dry, add more oil until it’s smooth. Set aside. 

Fill the same pot up with water and a few pinches of salt. Bring to a boil. Add the edamame and let cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the the ice bath. 



Take scallops and zucchini out of the fridge. On each plate, place a few zucchinis down, overlapping slightly. Place a row of scallops atop the zucchinis. Sprinkle some edamame, mint leaves, and hot pepper around the plate. Finish with a drizzle of the mint oil, olive oil, a sprinkle of flaky salt and reserved mint leaves. 



I paired this with a glass of Muscadet, which was perfect. Though I certainly don’t fancy myself a sommelier. 

I’ve always wanted to be one of those people who has a giant garden full of every type of every vegetable under the sun. But reality is, I’m just not attentive enough. I have two tomato plants and a basil plant. And three animals. And a boyfriend. And two jobs. Let me tell you, that is enough.

For now, I will just have to rely on farmers markets to fulfill my dreams of heirloom tomatoes, adorable little pea pods, colourful beets and bunches upon bunches of beautiful fresh herbs. </Siiiiiiiigh>

I was given a bundle of fresh mint the other day. What to do, what to do. Much to my content, I had forgotten about the little bag of sweet peas from Prince Edward County. Mint and peas, in one room!? At the same time?! I’d be a fool not to put them together.

And when am I ever without a bag of pasta or a log (or 5) of tangy, smooth goat cheese? The answer is never. Never! Ok, sometimes.

Penne with Mint Pesto, Sweet Peas and Goat Cheese

1/2lbs Penne (or any other small pasta of your choice!)
1 1/2C fresh or frozen (defrosted) peas

1 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, crushed

1/3C fresh packed mint leaves
1/3C olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
1 1/2C fresh or frozen (defrosted) peas

4-5 rounds of goat cheese

In a large pot of water generously salted, cook pasta to al dente according to package instructions. In the last 30-40 seconds of cooking, add peas. Set aside 1/2C of pasta water. Strain everything and add back to the pot.

In a small sauce pan, add the 1 tbsp of olive oil and heat over medium. When the olive is hot, add the crushed garlic and cook until fragrant.

Add the garlic and oil to a blender/food processor with the mint and 1/3C olive oil. Process until smooth. Add more oil if needed. It should be a little looser than a paste. Taste and add salt if needed.

Add pesto, and goat cheese rounds to pasta pot. Heat through mixing well until goat cheese turns creamy. Add some pasta water if it’s too thick.

Serve with lots of fresh pepper!